A Taste of Peru in the Strip

Chicken Latino, Pittsburgh's one and only Peruvian Polleria, sits on the 21st block of the Cultural District, down the street from the rather famous Mon Ami Chocolates and across from the (thanks to Obama) very famous Pamela's. But this humble corner restaurant is becoming increasingly famous in its own right for its fabulous rotisserie chicken, marinated, all night, in a cornucopia of fresh herbs and spices. Those who have tried it are hooked.

Opened in 2001 by Peruvian native Shelbin Santos, the spacious and colorful restaurant features a wide range of Latino chicken dishes with side dishes such as black beans and rice. It offers another flavor in a neighborhood known for great food.

Santos arrived in the United States in 2001 from Peru to pursue a medical degree but quickly had a change-of-heart, and decided to fulfill her life-long dream of owning a restaurant. "Ever since I was a little girl, this is what I wanted to do," Santos says.

First she studied ESL (English as a Second Language) and worked for PNC Bank, which was beneficial. "At PNC Bank, I learned how to manage and handle money, a lot," Santos says.

Now her goal is to give customers the most traditional Peruvian experience possible. "Growing up, we would sit down with family and extended family and have dinner. It was traditional; that is what I wanted to do," Santos says.

Santos has done everything possible to deliver a Peruvian experience to her customers, including ordering a special brick, wood-fired oven from Peru that allows her to use the special techniques in cooking the food Peruvian style. With her oven and recipes from home, Santos cooks-up delicious meals with a Latino touch.

The chicken is marinated over night for that moist texture and full flavor, seasoned with cumin, garlic, cilantro, and dried Peruvian chilies. She knows it's successful by the increasing number of customers. "It gets so crowded that sometimes there are not enough tables," Santos says.

"But the spices are not hot just savory," she adds. While the signature dish is drawing customers from all over Pittsburgh, Chicken Latino waiter Santino Petrocelli could be her best customer. He comes in on his off days just to eat. "I eat it every morning," he says. "Five days a week."

New additions have been made to the menu, including Mexican-style dishes and traditional dishes that include finger food for children. "We put chicken fingers on the menu just for the children," Santos says. On weekends, an additional menu is offered, featuring ceviche made with fresh tilapia, along with other selections such as pork roast, and Peruvian shish kebabs.

Customers can down all this with Peruvian Inka Cola,  a popular and delicious fruity drink with hints of coconut, banana, and pineapple.    

And sometimes there's entertainment, too. When salsa dancing is featured?  "Everyone just gets up and dances," Santos says. "All of the customers!"

Santos has plans of installing flat screen TVs in the restaurant. "I love soccer and it would be fun to show my friends the world cup on the flat screens," she says. "The Soccer World Cup, for us, is like the Super bowl for Americans."

Here in Pittsburgh, it's so cultural," she offers. "There are Italians, college kids, and other natives. It's a small community and so affordable. It's welcoming here. I love Pittsburgh, and I love my restaurant here."

Melissa Osiecki is an intern with Pop City. Pop City staff contributed to this article.

Photographs copyright Brian Cohen