The Big Draw of Pittsburgh's LIttle Italy

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The tiny section of Pittsburgh called Bloomfield is surrounded by some pretty imposing neighbors. On one side is powerful Oakland, with its medical complex, universities and cultural centers. On the other sides are chic and upscale Shadyside, artsy Friendship, and trendy Lawrenceville sprawling along the Allegheny River.

But Bloomfield has a mythic stature these other areas lack and transcends the boundaries of any local map. In the hearts and imaginations of most city residents, Bloomfield is Pittsburgh’s own slice of Italy.

This Italian heritage, always simmering on the commercial strip of Liberty Avenue, comes to a full boil during Bloomfield’s “Little Italy Days” at the end of September. On the weekend of this annual fall festival, organized by the Bloomfield Business Association, the street is filled with spaghetti sauce-red and white striped tents set up to sell pasta dishes, beautifully decorated pastries, and Italian Princess tee-shirts to a crowd of well over 10,000 people. A bocce ball court filled with enthusiastic players, the whiff of Sambuca on an old man’s breathe, and the sound of accordion music all combine to make you feel like you’re on an authentic, if momentary, Roman holiday.

On the Sunday of the festival, a gorgeous life-size statue of the Madonna della Civita and the infant Jesus, topped with golden crowns and residing on a vividly painted cart, are brought in a short procession from the modern Immaculate Conception Church on Friendship Avenue to Saint Joseph Church (built in 1886) at the corner of Liberty and Pearl Street. Like a scene familiar from the famous movie The Godfather Part II, the statues are pinned with money by parishioners seeking heavenly indulgence. The mix of old religious ritual and pop culture kick create a fabulous photo opportunity that was captured by everyone with a camera, digital recorder, or even a cell phone – which seemed to be nearly everyone in the crowd.

More earthly indulgences can be found in Bloomfield year-round. For those who want to prepare their own Sopranos-worthy meals, there’s Donatelli’s Italian Food Center on Liberty Avenue, with its cantaloupe-colored tin ceilings and surly countermen slicing up good salami and other fragrant meats and cheeses. Just off the main street, on the corner of Cedarville and Corday Way, is Groceria Italiana. Open seven days a week, the store offers sweets like biscotti, pizzelle and figs, as well as take-away Italian dishes and hard to find ingredients for the cook.

Homeowner Joey Vallarian, who moved to Pittsburgh from Mississippi and settled in Bloomfield to experience its Italian traditions, calls Groceria Italiana one of the community’s little gems. “The store is meticulously run,” he says. “An older Italian lady from the neighborhood comes in and makes the ravioli. It’s one of the hidden treasures that make Bloomfield so wonderful.”

Even more hidden is Sanchioli Brothers Bakery on Juniper Street, which is one of Bloomfield’s narrow residential roads that slope down toward the East Busway. Packed with houses like manicotti in a pan, Juniper also has a few surprises There is an occasional towering Pine tree, many grassy yards, and some steep City steps leading up toward the center of the neighborhood.

Sanchioli’s has been in this location since 1922. “I started bagging bread here when I was little,” says Alex Sanchioli, part owner of the shop for a quarter century, who has seen changes over the years. “There are more renters now than there used to be,” he says Yet some things remain the same. “We’ve always gotten the old Italians from the neighborhood. Now, their kids come in.”

Sanchioli’s makes bread, buns and pizza shells for most of the eateries in the area. Many of them have been around almost as long as the bakery. Del’s, on the corner of Liberty and Panama Way, is celebrating 55 years with a $5 spaghetti dinner every Wednesday. Further down is Mariani’s Pleasure Bar, established in 1941. Along with Lombardozzi’s and Tessaro’s, these restaurants have anchored Liberty Avenue for years. Globally, ethnic identity is usually established through force or food. For Italians, it’s definitely the latter: Make lunch not war could be their motto.

In addition to the cuisine, Liberty Avenue is also the location of some unusual shops focused on religious aspects of Italian tradition. Sacred Heart of Jesus, which sells statues and holy cards, and Merante’s Gifts and Maria’s, both owned by Maria Merante Palmieri, give Bloomfield a unique flavor that has nothing to do with garlic or olive oil.

Maria’s sign boasts having everything “from bambinos to brides,” and the claim is true. The store is filled with items such as christening gowns, tiny “I Love Nonna” tee-shirts, little girls’ white church gloves, and blue velvet suits and bow ties for little boys. “We do a good business,” Maria says. “Rituals like baptisms and first holy communions are still very important occasions in the Italian-American community. Even people who have moved away come back to find these items at my stores.”

Although Italian culture has dominated Bloomfield since the first wave of immigrants at the beginning of the 20^th century, the area has become increasingly diverse. There are now two Thai restaurants-- Thai Gourmet and Thai Cuisine—while Polish food has long been available at the Bloomfield Bridge Tavern and breakfasts are big at The Bloomfield Sandwich Shop. Indie hangouts like Paul’s CD and Box Heart Gallery share Liberty Avenue with corporate giant Starbucks and the local Crazy Mocha (with the Dreaming Ant for movie rentals). Allure, a hip women’s boutique adds another dimension to the busy street along with Vygor Fitness and Nutrition and Exercise Warehouse Gym for keeping fit and Howler's Coyote Cafe for live music. Simple Treat Bakery and Paddy Cake Bakery satisfy sweet cravings while Paul Lumber & Supply Co. handles all hardware needs. The shopping district offers a good range of products and services with more expected.

Bigger changes are in store for this community. Randy Strothman, Bloomfield Mainstreets Manager, expects $1 billion or more of investment over the next five years from hospital development on Bloomfield’s fringes. “UPMC is assembling properties on Baum Boulevard and Children’s Hospital [slated to open on Penn Avenue in 2009] will have 2,000 employees and bring an additional 400,000 cars a year into the area,” he said.

What that means for Bloomfield remains to be seen. But given the deep roots of its Italian heritage, its mythic stature is likely to remain deep-seated for years to come.

Margie Romero is director of communications at City Theater.

Thai Cuisine

All photographs copyright © Jonathan Greene
except Bocce and Madonna © Craig E. Biertempfel